A gorgeous 3-day weekend in Bali. Also, Jakarta Week 15.
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Jakarta's domestic terminal, although small, is also super-modern. It opened exactly 2 years earlier! (15 April 2009)
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Free-for-all boarding on Air Asia.
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As we approach Denpasar airport, Mt Agung pokes out of the clouds.
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Touchdown on Bali. Blue skies, red wingtips.
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The entrance to our homestay -- a typical multi-family compound that all Balinese live in.
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The entrance to our room! Shut with a padlock.
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The sitting area outside our room. Ornate doors!
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The view from our back balcony, overlooking a small valley.
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A view of the alley next to our homestay. Lots of family compounds are built wall-to-wall.
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And looking north.
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An ornate building in the middle of the compound -- the "deluxe suite" that's basically a house.
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Their new swimming pool and yoga deck.
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They also have a wood-carving door workshop on the compound.
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Their big dog seemed to smile every time we passed by.
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The compound's temple. The temples are always in the "north-east" corner. But to the Balinese, "north" is defined as the direction toward the mountain!
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An ornate shrine inside the compound's temple.
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Just outside our homestay's walls, a rice paddy!
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An alley next to our homestay that leads down to the ravine.
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Throughout Ubud, the locals leave offerings EVERYWHERE. In the middle of the sidewalks, on vehicles, on shrines. It's impossible not to step in them at some point.
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Brick transport. I guess boxes haven't come to Bali yet.
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Along Ubud's main streets, old meets new in a single building.
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My, what big teeth you have.
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Lots of alleys connecting little streets, with compounds coming off in all directions.
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The entrance to another family compound.
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A granny and her little shop.
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Hand-made metal fish ornaments for sale.
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The Ubud market -- caters mostly to tourists now, but some locals still shop there too.
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Women still carry heavy things on their heads. This woman takes her offerings to the temple.
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At Ubud's central temple, women make their afternoon offerings.
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The offerings pile so high they spill over.
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Did I mention there were lots of offerings?
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I'm sure there's a significance to putting them on the ground in front of the entrance.
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Each offering seems to have some flowers, an incense stick, a small snack, and shreds of something.
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Nearby, a woman makes the offering baskets for others to buy.
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The 2nd floor of the market overlooks the central part of the town.
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One of the market's many stalls. Baskets!
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And colorful sarongs.
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An ornate golden face peeks over the walls of a family compound.
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More modern shops and galleries on the ground floors of traditional (or made-to-look traditional) buildings.
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Mr Grumpy? Guess he's having a bad moss day.
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Local Lunch #1. Actually, the Balinese are big on fresh vegetables, tofu and tempeh, and reserve meat for special occasions. So it wasn't hard to find vegetarian food!
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The dish in the foreground is fresh vegetables mixed with toasted coconut -- a local specialty.
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Lots of street dogs -- but almost all have collars thanks to a well-run foundation that supports them.
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The entrance to the Ubud Palace. The royal family still lives here.
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Resemblance?
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Visitors are not actually allowed into the part of the palace where the royal family lives.
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This dog certainly thought of himself as royalty!
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All the stone statues wear sarongs. I feel under-dressed.
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He may be mossy, but at least he's dressed for the occasion.
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Peeking inside another temple off one of the main streets.
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Stand back, he's ready to swing at the pinata!
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Starbucks Ubud gets into the local mood! (But not to the extent of offering local prices.)
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A grand pond of lotuses leads up to this temple.
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One of a few lotuses in bloom.
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More ornate protectors.
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It's hard to take self-portraits with the DSLR!
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Crossing over the same river that passes behind our hotel. Crazy steps!
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This is one of the town's most famous museums (Puri Lukisan). Apparently this excavation site used to be a beautiful garden!
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A statue on the museum's property becomes one with nature.
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One of the three main buildings. The museum houses Balinese art, divided into pre- and post-war eras.
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Stopping for a foot-rester.
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This was painted on the wall outside one of the buildings. Otherwise, photography was not allowed inside.
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Just like our hotel door, they lock the museum with a padlock.
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Stopping for an iced tea break. A theme was to include one free beverage with your museum entrance fee.
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Parallel profiles?
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More local ladies carrying heavy things!
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This street dog was stopping for a drink -- in a fountain outside a craft store!
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The local kids found it as funny as we did.
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This woman's carrying a box of knives on her head! Good thing she's using one had for support.
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A local game of football across the main road from our hotel.
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Guess what's up ahead?
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The main road heads downhill, toward the Monkey Forest. (We'll return there tomorrow.)
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Decent slope!
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Monkey Changer?
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Giant statue of you-know-what outside the entrance to the Monkey Forest.
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Huge lily pads (or are they lotuses?) as we continue south out of town.
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After an approx 2 km walk, we arrive at our destination: the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA).
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The museum was constructed as such by Agung Rai in the 50s. It's home to both traditional and modern Balinese art.
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Twins!
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These ladies looked chilly.
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Stone, but alarmingly life-like!
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The museum had beautiful, open grounds.
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The stage on which they do gamelan performances.
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A shrine to we're-not-sure-whom.
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The main museum building has ornate doorways that border on creepy.
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Inside, two stories of traditional Balinese paintings. A few legends are common themes across the paintings.
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The museum cafe, at which we (again) were allowed a complimentary drink.
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Enjoying his iced tea in a serene setting, as the sun set for the day.
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Photos in the rice paddies.
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If you hadn't guessed yet, we were using two cameras!
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The rice was wet -- evening dew, or a recent rain?
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The cafe owner -- and guy who took this photo -- turned out to be Thai! He came to Bali a few months ago to open up a restaurant.
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More photogenic rice.
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A street dog finds comfort in the doorway of a convenience store. A theme?
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All the traditional buildings look nice at night under spotlights.
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Our room had a big ol' mosquito net. And lots of natural light to wake you, since there was no curtain over the glass doors to the balcony!
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Breakfast, included in the room rate: Australian-style pancakes and fresh fruit.
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Off on our bike tour! We stop, on our drive up the mountain, to see the photogenic terraced rice paddies.
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The beautiful rice paddies that surely feature on travel brochures for Bali.
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It's young rice -- still very green.
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They use terraced paddies to conserve (and re-use) water.
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Finally, we reach our highest destination! Unfortunately, the weather wasn't too agreeable.
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We're supposed to have a clear view of Mt Agung and Lake Batur. Oh well...
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The locals said the fog was going to lift around 2pm. We didn't have time to wait around.
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Oh well! You can imagine it's beautiful on a clear day!
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The fog does make for some neat shots, though.
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Spider caught some morning dew!
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Still haven't gotten on the bikes -- the tour takes us first to a mini-plantation, which has examples of various Balinese crops. Here, cocoa pods!
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Our guide shows us a coffee bean that he's just plucked off the tree.
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This is one of the civets that help make Kopi Luwak (aka civet coffee). These guys sniff out the best beans, and then "process" them one time before roasting.
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Here, the guide points out the difference between "male" and "female" coffee beans. (It's the shape.)
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And a local demonstrates how they roast the beans by hand in a special pan that maintains a given temperature.
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Roasted beans!
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A healthy papaya tree. I guess we have plenty of these in Thailand, too.
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Before we leave, they let us taste-test 6 drinks: 3 types of coffee, a cocoa, and 2 teas.
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Daintily enjoying his sip!
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A local brand of matches. Could be smelly when lit!
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The guide shows us a yellow cocoa pod -- the individual beans are purple when ripe.
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Photogenic fountain on-site.
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There was also a fruit-tasting. This was the only novel one to us. It's like a bitter tomato.
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Looks just like a tomato from the outside! But the skin is much thicker.
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A fruitful offering at the plantation.
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Big dew drops on a huge leaf.
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And we're off on our bikes! Down-hill, most of the way. We were a group of 10.
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There were 2 from New Zealand, 2 from Switzerland, 4 from Germany. We represented Asia.
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First stop -- a traditional family compound in the countryside. Here, a woman splits bamboo to make weavings that will be the ceilings in homes.
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The compound was home to 5 families, and this dog who liked to perform in front of his audience.
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One of the kitchens in the compound.
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The start of a weaving they make with the bamboo strips.
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The dog followed us, and started to play in the weaving as we stood around it.
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You can see all the small buildings inside the compound. Each compound is 200 square meters exactly.
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Pooped, after putting on a show for us.
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A collection of cocoa pods, some a little riper than others.
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A giant spiderweb shimmers in the mid-day sunlight.
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The family chickens.
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Back on the road -- passing school boys who are done their 1/2 day Saturday.
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Next stop: a rice paddy where the locals are harvesting the rice.
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Freshly-cut!
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The rice is ready to be cut and removed from the stalk.
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We jumped right in with the women -- interrupting their rhythm for sure.
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They remove the rice by whacking bunches against this board. The grains collect at the bottom.
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We were pretty pitiful by comparison!
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The "emptied" rice stalks are carted off for some other use.
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Action shot!
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I think they're used to a tour group stopping by daily. I hope we don't disrupt their production too much!
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Rice (still in the husk) and some stray stalk strands.
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Not sure what this tossing does. It must be to get rid of something!
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And back on our bikes we go!
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More terraced paddies. Looks like a giant knife just swept over them in one fell swoop.
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Here, sorting the rice -- still not de-husked. But they have machines to do that.
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Scary, indeed!
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Shocked by all the bicycles? Luckily, she didn't drop anything.
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This kid hams it up for the camera.
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They like to dry out the rice in the middle of the streets. Bad, when you're trying to drive along the streets!
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A few obstacles: potholes and a motorcycle with a wide load.
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Hello, she says.
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The locals sit outside and say "hello!" as we pass. I guess this is a daily occurrence for them!
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When she saw the camera, she stood bolt straight!
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Lots of kids stand on the street to wave or get high-fives.
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High five!
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A friendly gesture, I hope.
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More scenic rice.
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Next stop: a HUGE tree that's rumored to be over 500 years old.
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You could stand inside it and look up. Way too tall to capture in a single photo.
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Looking up the tree from the inside.
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It was like it had long, straight hair. They cut the dangly roots before they touch the ground.
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Back on the road, and through the fields.
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Stopping again -- to see what this time?
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Slow driving as we navigate the rice in the road.
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Spot the duckies?
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Looking pretty empty back there!
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Once we're down, the tour provides a late lunch overlooking -- that's right -- more rice paddies.
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A vegetarian feast!
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Tempeh (a local fave) and veggie rolls with the infamous peanut sauce.
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Hope he didn't drop something.
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Back in Ubud, a trip to the Monkey Forest.
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As advertised, lots of monkeys!
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They look cute and innocent, but they love to steal sunglasses and digicams.
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This bug-eyed baby knows where the good food is.
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Show some manners!
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Food coma!
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The local trainers ("monkey experts", they were called in the brochure) really are the monkeys' buddies.
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In the temple at the heart of the forest -- where everyone must wear a sarong.
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They try hard to keep the jungle outside the temple's confines.
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Ornate enough?
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Doing what monkeys do best!
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Oooh, that feels good.
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Have some decency, guy on the right!
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Stream flowing deep through the jungle.
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Picturesque bridge, swamped by another giant tree.
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This was once the bathing pool.
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Surprisingly moss-free!
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Back on the street, some colorful local paintings were nice candy for the eye.
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Afternoon coconut delivery!
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Back at the hotel, suddenly the volcano was visible!
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Hello down there!
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Local crafts that I thought looked just like the Mexican ones!
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Dramatically lit at night.
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Attending a traditional Balinese dance. They're performed at night, with a full gamelan ensemble.
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The band looked like they were enjoying themselves all night.
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When they're playing these instruments, the men look like machines! You hammer maniacally with one hand, and use the other to dampen the vibrations.
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The first dance of many. There were many different styles. Even their eye movements are choreographed!
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This dance supposedly depicted a warrior, afraid to go to battle.
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This guy played music as part of his performance.
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These 3 were kids! The 2 in green looked like twins.
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Scary face!
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In a more humorous piece, a mythical creature was introduced.
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And then a modern-day creature joined the fun.
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And then, suddenly, I was part of the show!
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More creatures.
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After the show, a late (but tasty) dinner at what must be the slowest restaurant in Ubud.
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Breakfast the next morning. (Can wear that red shirt cuz he's not in Thailand.)
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I got a "jaffle" -- the Australian word for a sandwich-maker sandwich.
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Heading out for a morning walk, following a route suggested by Lonely Planet.
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Apparently local bikers know of this route, too.
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It led us up through hills of elephant grass.
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Not at the top yet!
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Finally, getting there, and looking back at the valley from which we came.
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We're not the only ones out taking photos in the morning sun.
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Drying the grass. They use it to make roofs (among other things).
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360 degrees of beautiful views.
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Still signs of a morning dew.
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Another awkward group shot, thanks to the DSLR.
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The path was perched beautifully up above two valleys.
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Another local cuts fresh grass and lays it down to dry.
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Collecting yesterday's cuttings.
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In the distance, more terraced rice paddies.
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To the west, lots of new villas and resorts going up.
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More local ladies, this time carrying construction materials to a posh new house that's going up.
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He couldn't have picked a more conspicuous place to lie.
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Why, it's more rice paddies.
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Then we stumbled on a little village, also perched high on the hills.
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We found an artist whose family has been painting in Ubud for generations. (I guess they get French tourists.)
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We decided to get a painting from him. It's similar to the abstract ladies hanging left of the doorway.
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Wrapping up the canvas for safe transport. He said there are lots of new resorts going up, which is good for tourism, but bad for the rice industry.
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He also does egg painting.
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More rice paddies. Will these soon be gone?
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Anybody lose their rooster?
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Another village a few kilometers later, and more rice in the street.
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More lotuses. (Lotii?)
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Back in town, our last Ubud lunch at another small shop house.
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The decor here was quite homey!
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The one on the left is a jack fruit curry. Delish!
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Strolling once more through the market -- doing a final pass for souvenirs.
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Feel like you're being watched?
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More abstract paintings. Similar to, but not as nice as, the one we bought!
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More stares!
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Mini jack fruit! Look at the size relative to the cukes in the upper right.
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Another interesting take on the traditional woman.
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As we were walking home, we passed a ceremony underway.
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For the afternoon of our last day, we hired a driver to take us around the southern parts of Bali.
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First stop: Sanur Beach, which faces east. It's known as one of the quieter beaches in Bali.
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These fishing boats have some personalities.
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Loungers in front of the Bali Hyatt's property. Too sunny for me!
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Quite windy right at the water, which helps to cool off a bit.
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The water is *extremely* shallow at this part of Bali, thanks to some reefs way out there.
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Spider boat!
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Fishermen stand in the clear water, trying to catch... not sure what!
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The funny spider boats were anchored down and scattered along the shoreline.
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There were also lots of these slimy ocean weeds! Extra evident in the low tide.
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It was refreshing to walk along the water, although this beach also has a paved pedestrian path at the top.
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Interesting patterns in the sand.
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Near the entrance to the beach, the boats are much denser. You can see how clear the water is.
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Spider boats, row boats and motor boats all park together.
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Our van for the afternoon.
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Next stop: the cliffs of Uluwatu, the southernmost point of Bali.
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To access the view, you have to enter a temple. Hence, the Swedish sarong.
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Very beautiful, but the sun couldn't have been hotter!
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How picturesque! I imagine the view from below is just as nice.
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Another awkward group shot!
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See the slice of rock at the bottom of the photo?
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There's a walkway along the cliff that allows you to walk to that part that juts out.
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A view looking back, with the temple at the edge. (Doesn't the cliff look like a face?)
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The temple was filled with aggressive monkeys. This guy was extremely defensive about his chips!
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Final stop: Jimbaran beach (which faces West), famous for its seafood dinners overlooking the sunset.
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It's also quite close to the airport, so you can see all the planes queuing up to land.
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Later in the afternoon, this beach seems to be a popular soccer spot for the locals.
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How many people were playing at one time?
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Stopping for a rest.
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Sun's heading down for the night.
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Local kids seem to like to dig big pools for themselves, and then lie in them.
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She wonders why hers isn't so big.
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The sunset was, as you can imagine, extremely picturesque.
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The waterfront tables are all filled up! Shadows are long.
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Busloads of tourists (mostly Chinese) were dropped off here to photograph the sunset and eat seafood.
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See what I mean?
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I guess we were one of them!
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These restaurants must do great business!
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How pretty.
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People are still swimming as the sun itself dips into the water.
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Nice sky.
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See the streaks in the sky?
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Finally we give in, and join the hoards for dinner. No seafood for us, though!
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Hmm. What did we order?
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Good night and good-bye, Bali! Off to the airport now.